Tuesday, June 15, 2010

A Malian Wedding

The Bride, Fazetti-19yrs old
This is my friend Fazetti. Her two little sisters, Debora (age 5) and Mari (age 10) are my two best friends in village, and my neighbors. It's normal for us Peace Corps Vols to befriend the little ones because 1-our language level is about the same and 2- they are so curious about us, and are the ones that ask us questions. I formed a bond with these two little sweethearts right away. As a result, I became a good friend of Fazetti. She is 19 and the oldest girl of the family. Fazetti never made it past 3rd grade.
In Malian culture, it's so important that a woman finds a man/husband (its the same word in Bambara). My village was so happy for me when I announced to them that I had 'found' a husband (again, literal translation is 'found'). So, when I heard that my friend Fazetti had found a husband, I was immediately excited for her. I was told a month in advance when the wedding would be, and that I better attend.
Now, I've been in Mali for almost 2 years and had yet attended a Malian wedding. My fellow PCV's laugh at me, because I've missed out on many Malian cultural things like muslim holidays (my host family is Christian), or wearing the traditional Malian cloths. However, I am really happy that the first time I attended the wedding it was for a good friend, and as a result it ment so much to me and will stay with me forever. When I arrived in Kamona, the festivities had already begun. The whole community gathered to support her and her family. Food was given, family from surrounding villages came to say goodbye, and to celebrate with the family. Fazetti stayed in a room with her friends, and little children of the families to sing and dance for her. But also, just to be with Fazetti, as this may have been the last time they were going to see her. You see, the man chosen for Fazetti is from a different village about 25miles away. Far enough away that it's possible she may only come back to our village 1 time in her lifetime.
It was a long and hot first day of the wedding. I had a Malian outfit made specifically for the big occasion. My first and prob. last Malian outfit, but all my friends and family in village were so excited to see me in their traditional cloths. Here in Mali, when a person gets married, it is the responsibility of the couple to transport all of the guests to the site. In our case, there was a 25person van that came to pick us up to make the 30mile journey to Diaramanna. Fazetti's new home.
Just before we were going to pile into the small bus, Fazetti came out of the house, covered from head to toe in an all -cotton blanket. She was wailing. I've never seen a Malian so upset like this, not even at a funeral. I felt her pain. She was sat in front of us (I always sit with the old men), and they waited for her to calm down a bit before they gave her parting words and prayers. This was the most touching moment for me. I didn't expect this. Fazetti was so devestated to be leaving her home, her family, her life. She was literally in mourning. I could relate her pain to mine when my grandma died. She just kept crying and crying and crying, covered up in her special wedding blanket. I couldn't hug her or hold her or hold her hand to tell her it's ok, because that's not culturally appropriate here. Also because the old men were about to do some serious stuff. So, as I sat next to her, starting with the oldest man of our compound gave her advise, gave her many blessings, and wished her much luck in her future marriage. The same thing went on for 2 more of the old men. Her parents did not say a word, nor were they in my sight. It was done, she knew she was on her way to never come back again.
We then piled into the car. It took us 2 hours to get there. It was nighttime and the dirt road was very muddy from a rainstorm 2 days before. Upon arrival,we were greeted with special drinks, and then a dance party. I went to sleep. It was 2am by then! It was a beautiful night though, the Milky Way is above us now, and there were so many stars in the sky! It was a night like that that I know I'm blessed to be living here in Africa, to be able to see such amazing gifts of nature we have been given, but most people don't see.
The Wedding Party
So, this picture is the wedding party at the mayors office the next day. In Mali, the mayor marries you, then you'll have your religious ceremony. There is 1groomsman and 1 maid of honor. Thats all. So, we took this picture after the legalization of the marriage. Fazetti only smiled a few times when prompted. She didn't cry though.
Random Cute Little Girl Riding Her Pretend Horse
I thought this little girl was just so cute, riding her pretend donkey or horse. There were 2 other little kids on the same stick, but once they saw me they ran away. My host brother and I had to make a pit stop between the mayors office and the house because a part on his bike broke. We ended up staying for about 45 min and chatting with the guys at the mechanic while the fix was done. I always get nervous when sitting with a new group of people, because I never know where the conversation will go- yes, in Mali if you are in a waiting area you actually talk to the people you are sitting around. This conversation ended up as the older man telling us (jokingly) why our last name and the people of my African ethnicity are so horrible. I made it back just in time to present Fazetti to the elders of her new village, and to exchange money. The family of Fazetti had to pay about $10 to the marriage broker, than offer money to the new village elders (about $20). Then, the women from my village presented Fazetti, she got the blessings from the elders of her new village and a promise to look out for her. We also asked for their forgiveness for anything Fazetti may do wrong, as she is still a child and learning things.
Fazetti and Siriba- Bride and Groom
We ate lunch, I took a small siesta then we headed to the church for the church ceremony. I was able to see Fazetti before it started. She had a wedding dress on that she rented that was about 4 sizes too big, but she still made me shed a tear because she was a sad bride. She didn't speak much throughout the day. I think it was all like a bad dream to her. At one point in the day, when I had a moment with her I asked "Fazetti, did your dad find this man for you and tell you you had to get married?" She looked down towards the floor, and nodded in agreement. It all became clear to me at that moment. Fazetti was the oldest girl, an extra mouth to feed, whenever I teased her about going to the new village with her future husband she would always deny the fact that she'd be getting married (I always thought it was modesty), also her age is about the time where many girls get married, if not younger.
So, back to the church, the ceremony was nice, it was really hot in the church and I had to leave when the preacher started yelling his sermon at the audiance. They did their vows, and then at the end the whole congregation went up to shake their hands and give them coins. My 19 year old friend was now married. We paraded to her future house, and that was that. The people from Kamona all piled back into the bus and off we went. Little Debora and Mari may never see their sister for years. And so it a wedding in Mali, and for many unwilling brides around the world. I am so lucky to be able to live in a society where we can actually choose who we marry (even though 50% of those marriages end up in divorce......)

2 comments:

Kanki said...

Oh hija mia, que orgullosa estoy de ti. La oportunidad que has tenido y has sabido aprovechar va a ser de beneficio no solo para ti pero para tod@ aquel que se cruce en tu camino. Llegaste al final de esta aventura y pronto comenzara una mejor junto al hombre que te mereces y que te merece a ti. Mis bendiciones para ambos y espero verte pronto; sino en el Libano el ano proximo. Un beso

dad said...

Hi Monica, thanks for sharing. You wrote it so well that it touched our innermost feelings. I agree with what Kanki wrote above. Te doy muchas gracias, Kanki, por las palabras muy bonitas que escribiste de mi hija. Monica, you wrote that man/husband is the same word in the Malian language. Believe it or not, it's the same thing in the German language. "Mann" can mean either "husband" or "man" in the German language. I can't wait to see you, Brian, Aneesa and Samer later this year. On peut parler français quand tu es ici, si tu veux. Comme toujours, tu me manques beaucoup, je suis ton père (dad)