Thursday, March 26, 2009

Heat, Toto, Donkey Carts


I just looked up the weather for Bamako for the next 10 days. I stopped reading after the first 5 days said temps in the 100’s. Brian said NYC has a high of 49 degrees today. What a difference! I always say I would rather take the heat over the cold weather anytime. Now, more than ever am I being tested in my sentiments. It’s hot. I am living without air conditioning. There is little breeze, and when the wind does decide to pick up a bit it blows nothing but dust, getting one all dirty and muddy (sand mixed with your sweat).
How do I fight this heat? Well, one way is to not move too much. I can do things very early in the morning or around dusk. That leaves the whole day to sit under someone’s gwa (hanger made from old corn/millet canes). The next move is a hard one for me; to sleep outside in my REI bug hut tent! Here’s the big story. Its normal for both Malians and the American PCV’s to sleep outside during hot season. The roof on my house is tin so during the day it literally feels like an oven inside. It doesn’t cool off at night. Well a few nights ago I finally got enough courage to sleep outside on my porch. P.S. I don’t even like sleeping in a house by myself in the US, so it’s a fear without prejudices! Anyway. I was so excited to sleep outside under the beautiful, starry sky. As I was almost ready to sleep I heard a noise. I looked up to see something the size of a chicken but with a tail that was about 12inches long. It was the biggest rat I’ve EVER seen in my entire life. A Malian Rat! Ugh. I made a little noise (as I was protected in my tent-yeah right) and he scuttled away. About 2 minutes after I saw the huge rat, the lightening started. I decided it was time to move indoors.

As soon as I started to open the door to my house, the downpour came! Rains here in Mali are amazing. They come out of nowhere and it’s like they have something to prove! It’s the hardest rains I have ever seen. It’s amazing. I ran inside, and did quick rescue missions to save my stuff that I had left outside. I was drenched! As I hid in my house, these strong winds came and started lifting my roof! I thought ‘great, if I don’t get eaten by that rat, I will be killed by a piece of my roof!’ Ah, Malian living. I survived both. The rain and winds finally stopped around 1am and it really cooled down the air.
The next morning, it looked like a mini hurricane had gone through my village. As I greeted my old man neighbor, making note of the horrible rains last night, all he could say was ‘yes, it rained a little’ HA! ‘A little’ I think to myself…I’m scared for when it rains A LOT here! I then went to my host family to say good morning and to tell them about my night. As I was explaining about the rat, they 1st: laughed. It wasn’t a laugh to mock me, but in disbelief that I had never seen such a creature that big. 2nd: “Oh, you mean ‘toto,’ yes your neighbor said that they saw it in your compound before, we will kill it while you are gone.” Bada bing. Problem solved. People will eat that thing too! Funny thing is that it’s called toto in Bambara, because I think that he was really about the size of Dorothy’s Toto dog from the Wizard of Oz.

Ok, so other than this I am doing well. Works kicking off with a Malian bang (meaning it’s going slowly), and it’s really hot! Still doing well, still happy. I’m biking a lot, staying in really good shape for my 28years I must say!
Sorry this was a long one! Oh, and my donkey cart hours have increased…check out the tally!

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